Final Thoughts: Berlin, Barack & Baroque
Wednesday, July 30, 2008
What an interesting way to end an institute! Many of us where in witness to history on Thursday when we went to see Barack Obama speak at the Tiergarden in Berlin. Three of us went through the security screening (for me it took over ninety minutes) and were close enough to see him in person. I'd say that at one point we were about 30 meters away. Five types of law enforcement were in place, and a helicopter hover for thirty minutes overhead as they confirmed that the location was secure. The crowd was entertained by two groups very popular in Germany. The opener was a Reggae band, the main act a U2 type group. Some news report in the states made it seem like Obama was speaking at a concert, but really it was the other way around. Everybody who was there was there for Obama. It was the largest gathering for a non-German in their history.
The crowds understand of Obama English was uneven; many Germans speak and understand German quite well, while others got every other fifth word. There was a smattering of tourists from all over the world and a sizable amount of college students and young people. Overall, the Berlin crowd responded rather favorably to Obama and his message.
I was interviewed by some journalist, and my colleague got her picture taken more than once. Other highlights: there was one McCain supporter in the 200,000+ crowd - carrying a dirty red and white striped umbrella with cardboard cards tethered to it that read "Mc-Cain." Young people climbed lampposts and displayed American flags and the beer was plentiful. I read an article in Hello Leipzig a couple of weeks ago that discussed Alcohol abuse among young adult in Germany. I saw a little of that at this event, but for the most part I found the event well organized, security to be tight and the German people to be well-mannered and orderly.
Didn't hurt his approval rating any. In fact, I think he is 9 points up.
blacklieder /
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You know where I am
Sunday, July 20, 2008
Although it is under intense renovation, the Staatsbibliothek Berlin is a magnificent building. Most of the libary's collection appears to have been moved to its second location near the Philaharmonic, but the library remains in use by students and scholars . Labels: berlin, blacklieder, library
blacklieder /
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Further adventures in Germany
I got lost - again!
Travelling with a group of us going to Berlin, I made arrangements to stay at a hotel outside the city proper. I made this decision based on the fact that I am an Awards member at this particular hotel chain, and I'm trying to gather up points for my next vacation. The group made a tentative decision to meet at 5pm Thursday for dinner, and I immediately got lost. The Berlin HBF is big enough to easily lose one's bearings, and it took me a couple of days to realize just how extensive the transit systen is - more complicated than New York's system, and that's saying a lot.
I rode the S-Bahn for three hours, from the East side to the West side. I originally thought that my hotel was near the Schoenfeld airport because the street, or a street with the same name, is near the airport. After conducting some research, I concluded that the hotel was not near the airport at all, but across town in Wannsee. Ninety minutes later, I determined that the hotel was not in Wannsee either. Wannsee is a rather pleasant and upscale neighborhood with street names based on characters from the Wagnerian Ring cycle: Tristanstraße, Isoldestraße, Niebelungstraße and so on. Now, my hotel is on Warthestraße 20, and in Wannsee there is a Waltharstraße 20, and that's where I ended up. It was a very nice house in a lovely, quiet neighborhood, but it was certainly not my hotel.
On Niebelungstraße there was a group of people chatting at the threshold of their home. I approached them and asked if they spoke English. Luckily, one of them did, and between their English and my German we were able to figure out that I needed to be in Teltow, not Wannsee. They gave me detailed written directions on how to get from their house to my hotel. That required a 1kilometer walk beck to the SBahn, a ride to Zehlendorf, and a bus ride to Teltow.
It only took me six hours to find my hotel.
BTW, I was able to make our tentative meeting after all - on Friday. I was only a day late, but oddly enough they were there making plans for the evening.Labels: berlin, blacklieder, lost
blacklieder /
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Happenings in Berlin
Saturday, July 19, 2008
Many of us spent the weekend in Berlin, staying at a hotel near the Alexander Plaza. Early on Friday morning, we watched various people carry out sofas one by one and leave them on the plaza. It started with two or three sofas, but within a couple of hours, there were dozens of sofas. In the evenings, the sofas were loosely gathered around a temporary stage for various performances.
While we all pursued different activities during the day (churches, museums, bike tours, meeting friends), it was great to gather in the evenings for dinner. We had a nice evening at the oldest beer garten, but the Italian food in Charlottenberg was the favorite.
Faculty: Drs. Hilde Binford and Diane Husic /
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Weekend before the last week
Wednesday, July 16, 2008
Leipzig has been hectic at times and a slow pace at others, but never dull. With all of the museums, concerts and events there was always something to do, but the group grows restless and is ready to move on. The group has become this wondering band of gypsies scattering among the various venues Leipzig has to offer. I don't think they missed a single one. Today was spent by most running around doing laundry, and making arrangements for trips to various parts of Germany. Some members are off to Berlin for the weekend, others are off to Amsterdam and Paris. Tonight we all gathered for a farewell to Leipzig dinner at the Auerbachs Keller. (The Auerbachs Keller is in Goethe's play Faust.) We all will be getting together for our last week in Potsdam, and since it is only a 20 minute tram ride to Berlin, you know many of us will be frequent visitors. As we all have spent these last 3 weeks together we have become like a family. There is already talk of a reunion. Well it is late and I must pack for tomorrow's trip.
Faculty: Drs. Hilde Binford and Diane Husic /
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Auerbachs Keller
Sunday, July 13, 2008
Several of us went to the Auerbachs Keller for dinner, which was a unique experience. On the walls were elaborately painted depictions of Goethe's Faust, which kind of reminded me of the stations of the cross. The server spoke English, and as is customary throughout many of the places I've been to so far in Germany, was very cordial. There are two restaurants in the Auerbach Keller: one the historical restaurant where Goethe allegedly dined, and the larger part with the aformentioned stations. We went around after dinner examining each painting, translating the works in varying levels of German comprehension. I thought the expereince was rather nice.
blacklieder /
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Leipzig Legs
I'm a natural walker. At home, I walk about 20 to 25 miles a week on average. Hoofing it through Leipzig (and through Eisenach) has been right up my alley, though distance are somewhat leading. The city center, if you count Augustusplatz as your entry point, is a little over 1km from our hotel, so so the Nikolaikirche is about a mile and the Thomaskirche is about two kilometers. If you're walking back and forth, I'd say that's about five miles a day.
Lovely for me, and I'm thinking an added component to this Institute is the physical aspect. Many of us will have some pretty nice legs by presentation point.
blacklieder /
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Peace service at the Nikolaikirche
Saturday, July 12, 2008
Several of us went to the peace service at the Nikolaikirche on Monday afternoon after our tour of the city. The weekly peace service was started by a brave pastor during the last year of the GDR; at first only 10 people attended but every week it grew and grew, so much so that the Stasi [the Secret police] built a new building next to the church in order to take pictures of the people going to the service. The pastor also opened the altar to everyone. The Church has marvelous late 18th century decorations of florid palms on every column, and in October 1989, when the attendees at the service came out of the Church, they found thousands and thousands of people there with candles lit asking for freedom. It is this moment that is commemorated with a huge column topped with palm fronts right next to the church, the moment, our Leipzig guide said, when the Communist regime began to fall.
Our service was in honor of Christopher Street, where the American gay rights movement began in 1969 at Stonewall; I'm sure that's because today, July 12th, is the Leipzig Pride parade. There were a number of gay couples at the service, one, quite young and very affectionate, right in front of us; they could barely keep their bodies apart and kissed, gently, quite often. There were also many local people, obviously traditional Germans. The service began with a Bach Fantasia on the marvelous Nikolaikirche organ; unfortunately, there was a pretty ghastly folk singer as well. The most touching moment was when people, one by one, including us, took a votive candle, lit it on the candelabra, and placed it on the altar steps or on the cross there.
I noticed yesterday at the Weimar Opera House that its columns also had newly attached palm fronds, I'm sure in honor of that moment in Leipzig.
Louise Forsyth /
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Buchenwald and an encounter in Weimar
Buchenwald: Saturday July 11th. A whole group of us took the slow train [on the Saxon pass, which is 27 euros for up to five people round trip] to Weimar and most of us took the bus right to Buchenwald. The camp is only 8 kilometers from Weimar, but it's separated from the town by woods, which was intentionally designed to keep the local people from knowing much about what was going on in the camp. It's a powerful experience there, not that there's much left but what is is striking - the foundations of the many barracks, the crematoria, the disinfection building now used as a museum, and many memorials, including to the homosexuals who were interned and killed there and to the people of the many [some 34] nations who were in Buchenwald. Underneath the crematoria themselves, built in 1940 to deal with the ever rising death tolls, was a basement used as a morgue [with a conveniently designed chute for the disposal of bodies which then went by elevator up to the crematoria] and also a place with more than 1100 peope were strangled hanging on iron hooks on the wall. The museum is very good, mostly in German: designed not for us tourists but for the German people.
I had a touching experience afterwards. On the bus back to Weimar, I was alone as the rest of the group had left earlier, I noticed an old German talking to some clearly local people, and then I ran into him later in the center. He approached me, spoke to me first in German and then quickly switched to quite competant English. He said to me: "you have been to that horrible place" and words along the lines that "we must never forget." Then, when I asked him, he told me he was born in 1927 in Kassel, he was in the Hitler Jugend, as a school boy given a rifle to shoot at the American planes that flew over during the days - the Brits, it seems, flew over at night. We chatted some more and then he took my hand to say goodbye and asked me if I were Jewish; when I said yes, he kissed my hand. It was a sweet moment for me, and I think, for him.
Louise Forsyth /
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International Bach Competition
For two weeks, competitors from all over Europe arrive in Leipzig to compete in the International Bach Competition on organ, cello, and voice. Louise and I went to the vocal competitions, round one, on Thursday. There are over 40 vocalists in round 1, and each performs for approximately 30 minutes. They had to perform pieces with organ, harpsichord, and piano. They were required to include an 19th century art song, a Bach piece, and an operatic aria. There was relatively little Bach music included, besides the one required piece. Apparently the cellists have a more restricted mandate, and each of them is required to play one of the Bach cello suites. Round 2 -- next week, followed by the finals.
Faculty: Drs. Hilde Binford and Diane Husic /
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BUCHENWALD
Friday, July 11, 2008
Today we visited Buchenwald a memorial site located just outside of Weimar. The day started out gray and rainy and it only added to the sol em feel of the memorial to the victims of the camp. There were some buildings and lots of memorial plaques and marker stones from the various countries from which the prisoners came from. One of the buildings had been converted into a museum with artwork made by some of the prisoners during their time there. It is something everyone should see at least once in their life. Shown here is one of our participants, Scott Mooney.
Faculty: Drs. Hilde Binford and Diane Husic /
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Hospitals in Leipzig
Thursday, July 10, 2008
One of the participants needed to go to the emergency room on Tuesday night for a twisted ankle, so she and I went off by taxi at 9:30 p.m.. Much of the emergency room was what you would expect in the United States -- the brightly lit entrance with signs (including English) and the same reception and waiting room. There were also the usual patients -- the twisted ankles, someone with breathing difficulties taking oxygen delivered by ambulance, and someone covered in blood from a fight. (The police came soon after to take his testimony.) And just as in the U.S., our wait for the relatively minor procedure/x-rays was several hours. We were home around 1 or so.
The building is three floors high, and it is one of 20 or so buildings in the hospital complex. On the top of the building there is a heliport, which buzzed with activity during the 4 hours or so that I wandered about while waiting for the participant. Three times the helicopter landed and took off -- and each time the sound was deafening as it bounced back off of all of the concrete buildings. As the engines turned off, the helicopter seemed silent, but the amplified sound continued to reverberate from the surroundings.
There were a few differences that I found interesting. First, the smaller ambulances were electric vehicles that were plugged in when in the garage. Second, there was a smoking pavilion outside for the staff/doctors to smoke in during their breaks. But the best part of all was that the phone at the reception desk rang throughout the night with a Bach ringtone!
Faculty: Drs. Hilde Binford and Diane Husic /
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Lonely, I'm Mister Lonely
Wednesday, July 9, 2008
Feeling only a little like Kim Jong Il at this point, I'm missing my wife terribly. I don't mind the library, but it's awfully nice to have someone to go home to.
And I feel lonely on the blog!! I'm waiting for everybody else to get on here so I don't feel so very lonely!
Anyway, I keep looking for one thing, and finding something else. I left the hotel today looking for the Coffee Musuem, and wound up at the Stasi instead. The Stasi is a museum on Socialist Republic in Germany. Well, as fascinating as Germany history is to me, I was, in fact, looking for Coffee. Case in point:
I thought it was close to this, and I simply didn't see. I'll admit, I'm not working very hard to find anything (except the library). I guess tomorrow I'll stop and take a picture of the library too.
blacklieder /
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Living in Leipzig
Tuesday, July 8, 2008
Leipzig is a a young town, a lively, vivrant college town. Young adults are intelligent, multi-lingual, and optimistic.
It is easy to get around by tram or by foot, and most of the life here appears to be in the Center of town. The fact that the Hauptbahnhof is a transportation hub seems to help. I am impressed by this town. It is modern but still moderately paced. The longer I stay, the better I feel. Still cannot navigate the language too well, but at least I'm staying out of trouble!!
The tour on Monday was informative and help solidify my comfort level with the city. Because of the tourist level, the commerce is strong. However, since we're for two weeks, I am working on stretching my Euro. As a curiousity, I exchanged a twenty dollar bill, and only got 8,56€ back. I may seriously consider joining the street performers to make a couple of Euro on the side!
A word about the Public Library: it is a fully modern library in fairly new building, with internet access and open stacks to those with library cards. It costs 10 Euros for a six month card, which allows you to borrow books for 4 weeks and other materials for a week. You have access to their internet as well. I haven't decided to get a card yet. It may simply be cool to have one. 
WELCOME TO THE TULIP INN!
Not the easiest hotel to find, it is still in a convenient location. The top two floors of the building pictured is the hotel, which used to be called something else. This creating part of the diffieculty in locating it. Below the hotel is the Gutenburg Gallery. The building is across the street from the Gutenbergschule, pictured below.
I wonder what Gutenberg would think of the Blog. His printing press spearheaded the Age of Enlightenment. What is the blog contributing to the world? Anyone in the world can read this blog. Had Bach been able to spread his music worldwide during his time, how would that have affected the spread of his music?
blacklieder /
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Day one in Leipzig
Monday, July 7, 2008
Today we got to take a tour of Leipzig. We went to the musical instrument museum, Opera house and St Nicholas and then on to St. Peter churches. After the churches we went for a walk through downtown Leipzig. This photo is of the group in front of the Museum of musical instruments.
Faculty: Drs. Hilde Binford and Diane Husic /
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Day two in Leipzig
Sunday, July 6, 2008
"Even if the world were to end tomorrow in dust, I would still plant my apple tree today"
- Martin Luther  Saturday went much better. I started the day writing a song based on a quote of Martin Luther I had read while in Eisenach. After breakfast, I made my back to the tram and headed to the City Center. I found in order the University of Leipzig bookstore, the library, the "Kino" or movie theatre and the Bach Museum and Archive. After buying tickets to the movies, I went to St. Thmas Church. There I was witness to their choir rehearsal, which was a treat, and quite the relief after yesterday's hi-jinks. Me and the big guy @ Nick'sSt. Thomas has two organs. Stained glass mosaic decorate the Southside of the church (the church, that is, the altar, faces East) including one commemorating JS Bach; the mosaic closest to the altar depicts the cruxifiction.  The holy of holies was roped off from the public. There are portraits hanging on either side of the altar of the presiding pastors. The painted portraits go up to the present, including Ekkehard Vollbach, who presided from 1998 to 2003. Also on display is the communion register from 1736, a church book from 1721, church programs printed for Bach of which only seven remain. A bible used for services from 1702. A letter written by Bach, and several musical instruments. The Bach Archiv is currently under construction. During the construction, a small collection is being displayed. The two things I found most interesting were the actual drawing of Bach that everyone uses, and the original manuscript for the Coffee Cantata. After that, I went to the Leipzig Public Library, and figured out how to get a library card. I might do that later this week. Then after a weinerschnitzel, I went to the movies, and lost my change purse. It fell out my pocket during the movie. This time I was better prepared and I was able to describe what a change purse was and what it looked like. Thankfully, they found it. It had all my change in it, and you know how valuable change is in Germany!! It taught me a very valuable lesson: it is helpful to have loose change on you at all times. I discovered this when I had to buy my tram tickets and needed exact change for the machine. It is also helpful if you want a snack or to use the internet. Then I went shopping. It is important to point out that so far, Europe does not seem any less expensive than the States. Although I did see a pair of Bugattis for a ridiculous price. I'm going back there as soon as I have more money!!! If you want to blog, an internet cafe in the City Center stays open until 22.00Uhr, or 10 pm. Theyhave very reasonable rates. The tulip does not have internet, but WiFi is a possibility. They also have a rooftop gazebo thing that stays open until 1am. Thanks to John and Katie with help on the Luther quote. blacklieder /
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Day one in leipzig
Saturday, July 5, 2008
My first day in Leipzig was a total disaster. Because of the time difference and problems w/ my email, I couldn't make my hotel arrangements. I decided to have lunch, and settled for a place inside the train station because it had started to rain. When I went to pay, there was mass confusion, and they started making me another plate. I panicked and a bottle of beer I had packed in my carry on slipped out of my bag and exploded all over the floor. I was mortified: I paid (probably too much) and I left. I sat down at on a park bench, cleaned off my belongings, and tried to figure out what to do next. After I calmed down a bit, I went to the Tourist information place and asked for directions. My wife was able to make reservations at the Astral Hotel, which happens to be on the outskirts of town. I walked around the City Centre for a bit, asked a nice woman from Berlin for help (she spoke English), and trusted her a bit too much - more on that later. I took the Tram, and on the advice of the nice lady from Berlin, got off at the very last stop, and realized I was literally in the country, and nearly outside of Leipzig. At one point I was literally no longer on my map.
 I had had enough. I googled the Hotel, got a GPS location, called the front desk and received clearer directions in English.  It took me three hours, but finally found the hotel, which was in a cul-de-sac off the main road. All this time, I was dragging my suitcase across cobblestones, brick roads and dirtpaths, but who's complaining? The intersection above is not even on the map, and I checked. I'm gonna get a better map. The hotel itself is fairly nice, surrounded by residences, other abandoned hotels, and industrial businesses. I checked in, had a meal, and went to bed. And then the dreams came.
I'd rather not share that part, as the images are so disturbing I wouldn't want to frighten younger or older viewers. Suffice to say, I got much less sleep than I usually get, and I'm an insomniac.
Hmmph. I must channeling Bach, Luther and Hildegard all in one day.
Hopefully, day two in Leipzig won't be as tragic. Labels: bach, blacklieder, disaster, leipzig
blacklieder /
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Mittwoch und Donnerstag
Thursday, July 3, 2008
 BACH CHOCOLATE
So far, this institute has been as pleasurable as my favorite food, pictured on your left. The Schlosshotel has been rather obsequious during our stay here, and I will remember my stay here fondly. It certainly ranks higher than Red Roof.
Our meals have been quite educational and fortifying. I am hungry as I write this, which usually a clear indicator that I've eating well. May our fortunes hold steadfast in Leipzig as well.
 On our left is the Eisenach Brewery, which I happened to pass on my way back to the hotel after wandering the town. Beer is a big part of what makes a small town run, and I imagine that the town beer is as old as the town itself (not a hard fact to confirm, probably).
I also visited the Lutherhaus, and found the exhibits quite intriguing. The postcards that describe the Luther Rose were available in German and in English, so I got one of each. I sent a postcard to my church, a Lutheran body, knowing they would get a kick out of the visit.
I took a stroll down JSBachStrasse, which goes up a steep hill into a nice residential area. As the guide on Monday told us, and I was able to confirm, it is hard to get lost in Eisenach. After walking for about 45 minutes, I wound up right back where I started.
I enjoyed Eisenach, and I'm looking forward to Leipzig.
blacklieder /
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Farewell Luther Theme Dinner and Organ Concert
Today is our last day in Eisenach, the city of Bach's birth. After spending the morning watching films which featured his music, we went to the organ concert at the Georgenkirche across the street from our hotel. The concert included two Bach pieces and a Mendelssohn piece. The group broke up in the afternoon. Many revisited the BachHaus, others went to the Luther House, the SPD museum (Social Democratic Party, founded in Eisenach in 1869), the auto museum (which chronicled every vehicle made in the Eisenach area since the 1920s to present day), the Wartburg Castle (boy, those guys are looking for pain), and the Stadtsschloss Museum (containing porcelain and the Schloss apothecary).
The day ended with the "Luther Theme Dinner," which included soup, veal goulash, and ice cream with berries. Kate toasted the directors and Moravian College. Everyone enjoyed the letter from Christopher Thomforde (president of Moravian College) which recounted his early experiences with Bach in Eisenach.
Faculty: Drs. Hilde Binford and Diane Husic /
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wann in Eisenach...
Wednesday, July 2, 2008
I like the idea of drinking beer in the middle of the day; I believe it makes the rest of the day much more tolerable. I understand this does not work well with crane operators, but if you don't operate heavy machinery after one pm, I don't forsee a problem. Besides, if you do most of your heavy thinking between between nine and twelve, drinking a pilsner afterwards becomes ideal.
Before we leave on Friday, I would like to visit the Wagner museum and go to the movies, probably to see "Indiana Jones" in German. Maybe "Hancock", whichever is available. If not, I'll have to wait until I get to Leipzig. Who knows, I'll find a decent recording studio in Leipzig and get a deal!!!
blacklieder /
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No change in the game
This display at Bachhaus has inspired me. It is not unlike how I work at home, only I usually don't have to write my compositions down; I record them directly into my computer. It looks like we haven't come too far in 300 years!
blacklieder /
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Phanomen
In the Bachhaus, I experienced some deja vu: About three months ago, I had a dream where I was in what looked like a library, and I was looking at some books on Bach. These books were tethered to the wall by metal cable. I had this dream, and thought little of it until I was at Bachhaus yesterday and found myself looking at books on Bach tethered to a counter by metal cables!
I was so moved by this experience I was compelled to jot down something in their comments book. I think I need to go back there today and study some more.
In other news, I think I have a good idea for my presentation. Without going into prohibitive detail, I have chosen another composer that shares JB as his initials. Of course, this means much more study than I am normally prepared for, but this is a special occasion, so I'll make an exception in this case.
blacklieder /
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Eisenach - Bachhouse
Tuesday, July 1, 2008
We took a tour today of the Bach House and museum today. It is both old and new at the same time. There is an original building showcasing artifacts from his life and the new part of the structure is a museum set up with the latest in technology that showcases his work very well with lots of listening stations and even a 3D video of various artists performing his works. The museum staff showcased a lot of period instruments, including the clavichord, harpsichord, and spinet and organ. Later in the day the group got a chance to see the Bach chior rehearse for an upcoming concert. The experience was magical.
Faculty: Drs. Hilde Binford and Diane Husic /
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Day Two In Eisenach - Wartburg
After a wonderful breakfast we all assembled at the lobby for the bus ride to Wartburg Castle. It was a short ride up the hill through beautiful thick woods. Upon arrival we proceeded to walk up the steps to the castle which were quite steep and well over 200 of them. The castle tour was interesting and touched upon several highlights of St. Elizabeth. They claim she had the power to turn bread into roses. She had a short but full life and became a saint shortly after she died at the age of 24.
One of the rooms most remembered is where Luther spent 10 months and translated the New Testament into German. The picture is of Luther's room. He was said to have "fought the Devil with ink." For decades, people have assumed that Luther actually threw ink at the devils in the room, and many visitors have looked for the ink stains. Apparently, in the 19th century, the castle owners added ink blots to the wall. Now, it seems that Luther was writing metaphorically, in the sense that he was defeating the Devil by translating the Bible into the vernacular.
Faculty: Drs. Hilde Binford and Diane Husic /
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